I tapped into the bird brain this week, as the little fellows who were born in a nest on my pergola took flight and started new lives of their own. Thank goodness; they were messy. Time to remove that nest before someone else moves in.
We did have a good time watching mama and papa come with wormy dinner and leave with what several websites have confirmed to be bird poop in small sacks. Sorry to make it poop-related, but watching them was fascinating; who knew they were so hygienic. Cute too, with their little mouths held open and ready for din-din every night right around 6:30.
Hoping to keep the birds in the area but not loitering over my entryway, I decided a formal birdhouse might be well-suited for the backyard. My parents had a slew of birdhouses (both DIY and fancy pants two-story aluminum structures with railings and condos and HOA dues) and I’m surprised it’s taken me this long to realize that I had never made or installed one myself.
Happy shout-out to Chris at Curbly for the inspiration behind creating this project. His mid-century modern birdhouse must easily be the hottest birdpad in town. Swanky. I started by using his as a visual reference, but applied some of my own creative liberties along the way based merely because I was limited on materials and didn’t want to drop some dough if I didn’t need to. (I didn’t; this was totally free-zilla.)
The wood I used was leftover premium pine from when I installed the open kitchen shelving.
Starting with a few sketches, I decided that a square-ish structure with a slanted roof, like Chris’s was a fair starting point. Because I was optimistic about using the larger 11″ x 14″ boards for the roof and floor, I biscuit joined several strips of the narrower boards using a similar technique as when I’m building custom frames. There were biscuits installed each place there’s a piece of tape. This was about to become the front panel.
The boards were assembled carefully so as to align with one another. A quick photo of that for your enjoyment:
Once together, they remained clamped overnight, and then sanded the following day for a smooth finish. After that point, I decided to make the bird door for the front panel; I used a simple 2″ hole saw bit on the cordless drill, and decided to position the door slightly off center for effect.
Of course, I’ll be totally honest and tell you that it took me at least 8 cuts to get the angles right, facing the right direction, matching each other, etc. I was kind of an angry-at-myself goon by the 8th time I messed up my cuts and added another biscuited board to the front of the house since I had eliminated any real chance of having a slanted roof having made an ungodly amount of inaccurate cuts. That’s the beauty of the biscuit; it’s a quick and simple way to marry two pieces of lumber in happy union.
Another reason I like the biscuited look is that the horizontal lines are subtly made visible by the inconsistent wood grain. Unless they’re royal mid-century birdlets, they probably won’t give a chirp, but I like it.
By this point, I had the front and back panels of the house. They measured 6″ x 8″ (front), and 3.5″ x 8″ (back). The symmetrical side panels, I had decided would also be 3.5″ by 8″, which means there’s going to be extra ventilation as the roof extends from the back to the front.
I biscuited these pieces together as well, although I did follow up with a nail gun in a few places for added security, since I was planning on using it all along for the base and roof assembly.
Because I had the main structure in place before building the floor, measuring and installing that floor was very easy; I simply measured the house, and slid in a piece of wood to serve as the base. It was right around this point that I realized I could arrange to have an easy access point, and removed the floor that was a perfect fit, cut it into two pieces (2/3 and 1/3). The larger flooring piece was affixed to the side walls via nail gun, and the smaller panel was attached using a single screw into the back of the house horizontally, so that to remove it and clean the birdhouse, all I had to do was remove that screw and drop the small panel out. I anticipate it being a piece of cake, and even pre-drilled a hole in case I wanted to twist a screw or hook into the bottom of the panel to help extract it.
As I said before, the nail gun was best suited for attaching the remainder of the base and the roof (which is 11″ x 14″ if you’re wondering) to the structure securely. We really love this pancake compressor, and use it and it’s accessories as often as we can.
The final step was to drill a small hole to make a bird perch using a leftover wooden dowel a.k.a. a fancy green pencil that I had in the house. The 9/32 bit is the perfect size to drill the size of a pencil, for the record.How’s that little pop of color for you? I positioned it slightly below the entryway, and forced it about 2″ inside the house as well so even from inside the birds could jump up to the door easily.
The finished house received a final sanding to smooth out any rough edges, and is currently waiting install on the fence in my backyard, probably right in amongst all of those roses in the background once they’ve finished blossoming. My house is loaded with roses right now, by the way. It’s quite nice.
A quick intro to a not-so-quick post: Let me backtrack 6 months to when we were demo-ing the basement “bathroom”. The half-bath (shown in that thumbnail to the left) in the corner of the otherwise unfinished basement was nothing to rave about; the water to the sink wasn’t hooked up, and while the toilet was functional, it had been leaking for who-knows-how-long and destroyed the raised platform floor. I believe my home inspector called it “spongey” in his report.
The situation didn’t bother me too much; I had a full, non-spongey bathroom upstairs. Sidenote: I’ve heard that many local-to-Rochester, NY American Foursquares are set up to have toilets in the unfinished basement. So weird.
Anyways, Pete claimed it as his bathroom for when he was working in the basement; said it was manly and convenient and he liked it because he could wear his muddy Doc Martens to the bathroom without worrying about tracking the mud up the stairs and across the West Elm bath mats. Fair enough, but that meant that the spongey situation had to be fixed.
We tore out the vanity, and tore out the wall enclosure – you can read about the whole plan here and here. (We’ve been using those materials for various projects, like building the workbench and my gardening storage).
And that brings me back to present day. The toilet and remainder of the platform were the last things to be removed. Basic uninstall of the toilet, and demo of the remaining soggy wood (which went straight to the trash), left us with a blank slate in which to build a new platform on which we could re-install the toilet.
Pete covered the area in sawdust to help absorb some of the moisture that had gathered on the floor. This seemed to help a lot after a day of absorbing and evaporating. Since we knew that the leakage was just from the faulty toilet, we knew the wetness wouldn’t be an ongoing issue.
As you can see in that last picture, the plumbing forces the toilet to sit about 9″ off the ground. Pete figured out how tall the platform needed to be based on that, and built a 3′ x 5′ structure that was tall enough to support the toilet, and wide/long enough to be comfortable for the person using it. Toilet user space is such a classy topic.
Hi, Pete here. Not only did I choose 3’x5′ because it was comfortable, but also because that just happens to be the uncut dimension of HardieBacker® 1/4” Cement Board.
Each board that Pete used in the new platform construction was partially wrapped with plastic; just a little something to help keep the wood from absorbing inevitable moisture from the concrete. You can see it a bit here in this photo with the finished platform and soon-to-be-installed OSB.
The OSB installation was a breeze – it was connected to the platform with basic wood screws. The cement board, unlike the OSB, needed to be mortared and then screwed into place with cement screws, which were bought and used in that step. The next picture, taken at some point between the OSB install and before the cement board was dropped on is decent for scaling the real size of the platform when compared to my feet. And it’s a little mortaring-technique action shot for you guys. Pete’s a blur in most photos I take of him, and occasionally I have to ask for a “FREEZE” to get him non-blurred when I’m using the iPhone.
When it came to tiling the surface of the platform, we were approaching it with a “this-is-our-first-tiling-project-ever-practice-run” for when we get around to doing other projects on my wish list (like the entryway, the bathroom, the kitchen).
I found a whole bunch of tile in my basement from the previous owners, and our full-intent was to put it to use on the platform during this tiling test run. (Read: free!)
They’re neutral gray, and free is just the ticket. It was a good plan until we noticed that they had been previously mortared. Semi-blow to my positive attitude. Before I could get too far with a plan to try and chip off the remaining mortar by hand, Pete observed that the tiles were an odd 6.5″ square size and to fit on the 3′ x 5′ platform, we’d have to do a lot of avoidable tile cutting… without wet saw access. Another blow to my now semi-positive attitude.
I sulked a little bit about missing out on being able to use the free stuff, but got over it when we went to Home Depot and bought the plainest-of-the-plain 12″ ceramic tiles that were clearance priced at a sweet 88-cents/sq. ft. (down from $1.23/sq. ft. which is still mighty cheapola). At least we knew that the even 12″ tiles would fit evenly on our 3′ x 5′ structure without much extra work.
The tiling process was as easy as I could have expected; with the cement board screwed in place, we applied mortar slowly across the platform (and also buttered the backside of each tile, thank you DIY Network). The tiles went down and aligned very nicely, except, oh, see those two missing tiles at the top around the plumbing?
We tried both an angle grinder and a few Dremel attachments to try and cut out the half-circles that needed to come out of each of the two tiles. None of those efforts worked, so don’t even try it yourself; we ended up taking a quick road trip to a friend’s house for some wet sawing therapy before all the hand-mixed mortar dried up on us. It was like the Amazing Race of DIY, the race against the stubborn substance that wants nothing more than to cure in a huge bucket and become unusable. A race against the clock. It was actually Scott from the Hamilton Productions Workpad post + fiancee Sherri that came to the rescue here, and boy oh boy, did we appreciate the last-minute-availability and tutorial on using the wet saw (also the first time using one). P.S. Doesn’t the lawn look so lush over at their pad?
Because the saw only cut straight lines, we cut narrow, parallel strips into the tile, and then chipped each manageable piece out individually. Good technique for a wet-sawing newbie. Write that down.
And yes, we did beat the clock, making it home before the mortar went unusable and got the last two tiles worked into place. We let the mortar set for two days to dry thoroughly.
When it came time to grout, we chose a simple dark gray color that we mixed ourselves instead of buying a pre-made container. I liken it to making your own inexpensive macaroni salad instead of buying the tub of it at the store.
The toilet install was the final step, using a new wax ring and the existing fixture, but noticed that once it was installed it was leaking from the tank.
At least Pete’s handy and knew that this was probably because the rubber washers used on the bottom of the tank were deteriorating and needing to be replaced, so after another trip to Home Depot, he had the parts he needed, emptied the tank, and made the swap.
To clean up the edges of the platform, Pete custom-made trim for the exposed two edges out of wood that had been used in the original bathroom structure. Also, he painted the walls surrounding the area that were dirty (not mold, just a combo of previous water damage and never-painted walls that were hidden in the original half-bath, we think).
Perfect seal, clean space, and a finished basement bathroom platform.
Hi, Pete here, again. Wow, look at the difference between the old, disgusting wall that was covered and the nice, new white from the UGL DRYLOK® Waterproofer. Now I just have to clean the grout off the trim panels I put up and paint them.
Kind of exposed, so knock before going to the basement. I suppose it would decrease the manly rating if I hung a yellow ruffly curtain around the edge?
P.S. You might be wondering where the vanity went. To the curb, baby; it was a 1940’s crumbling mess. There’s a sink in the basement that is totally usable 5 steps from the toilet. Now, where to put the toilet paper?
How about a little product woohoo today? Namely, this is a proper shout-out to the single product that since acquiring it when Pete moved in that has helped to keep me dog-fur-sane for the first time in 1.75 years (which is when Cody moved his furry butt in and promptly started shedding year-round): The Dyson Animal.
I should certainly start out by including that this post is brought to you by me, but I’m being paid to write it by Tesco Direct, the online store of a popular UK retailer who (from what I hear from friends across the pond) is regularly frequented for good deals, a vast array of product, and because it’s an easy to use site. Win, win, win.
When they asked me to write a post for them, I agreed if and only if they let me write about one of my own products; I was the one to offer up a post on the pretty purple Dyson vacuum because I noticed the popular product line was featured on their site. Know that I wouldn’t tell you guys how much I love this product if I didn’t; I’m also not much for telling people about products that I haven’t myself owned and tested. Just so you know, ours is the Dyson DC14 Animal and while it’s more outdated than the ones listed on Tesco Direct, the Dyson DC26 Multi Floor and Dyson DC33 are awesomely comparable when it comes down it. It should also be good for you to hear that Pete’s owned it for years, and it still sucks dirt like a kid chugging chocolate milk from a straw.
I vacuum and/or sweep a lot, depending on the extent of the mess. After 3 days of traveling, I returned home to find the room corners, chair legs, and stairwell looked like this (I was traveling and Dad was housesitting and I can’t blame him for not caring about the dog fur buildups on the stairs, I’d like to not care too).
This is where the Dyson comes in oh-so handy. Infinitely better than a broom with this kind of mess, the entire unit is perfect for a few reasons:
1. It’s light. It’s no pain in the butt to carry it up and down the stairs.
2. The power cord is long. Really long.
3. It has that patented Root Cyclone Technology that prevents loss of suction (you’ve heard it in every single commercial by Dyson – it’s totally true, this thing sucks… the good way.)
4. Like the power cord, the Dyson comes with a really long hose that easily unhooks from the handle. This is my best friend, and the real reason I’m so successful getting into nooks and crannies and up and down the stairs.
5. Bagless. This means that it’s not poofing out all kinds of dust every time you lift it (and yes, poofing is technical). Because it’s bagless, it’s designed to empty so, so easily with just the push of a button:
Pete and I also have competitions over who can trap more dirt in one vacuuming effort; kind of an addicting game, you’d think my house would be cleaner. Here’s what it looked like full after I had at my house post-traveling excursion. See it all whirled up securely in the container?
The links in this post are sponsored by Tesco Direct; however, the product is my own and the bubbly feelings expressed are mine too.